Go to FastAd#:
Search "News" for:

More on turns: Important details

27th in a series

Les Vogt for the California Horsetrader - November 20th, 2015

More with Les

After using pattern exercises the last two issues, Les wraps up his lesson with some key points. Who’s steering anyway? A very simple concept that can be easy to forget is this: If you’re not telling your horse to turn, he should be going straight. Too many riders let the arena fence do their steering for them, and when they come off it they, and the horse, can really get lost. So get off the rail, look up, then pick a point and trot toward it. What happens? Odds are your horse will start drifting toward what interests him, and you get an excellent training opportunity for him and yourself!

How fast can you reward your horse?

24th in a Series

Les Vogt for the California Horsetrader - October 1st, 2015

Last issue, Les discussed some methods to deal with pressure and communication. Now let’s look in detail at the process.

The better you get at rewarding your horse for the correct response or even the correct thought, the faster he is going to progress through this program. More with Les

This means that before he can be trained, you need to become trained. You need to get to the point where your hands respond to the presence and absence of resistance in your horse’s mouth, almost before your brain comprehends it. Think for a minute about when you drive a car (or, for our younger readers, ride a bicycle). When you come to a curve in the road, do you mentally stop and think about how you’re going to make it around the corner before you actually start to move the wheel? Probably not if you’ve been driving for more than a few months. Your riding has to start to become the same way:

Hanging Bridle: A good exercise

Fourteenth in a series In recent issues, Les covered cuing zones and other details of using our legs. Here is an exercise that illustrates with our hands.

Les Vogt for the California Horsetrader - May 7th, 2015

LesVogt_170pxHere’s a good exercise to remind you of how little rein pressure it takes to send a signal to your horse. To try it, just hang your bridle on a doorknob, like it would hang from a horse’s head. Now stand about five feet away, take one rein in your hand and just lift it until you make contact with the bit and it starts to move. You’ll see that it doesn’t really take a lot of pressure or movement on your part to get movement out of the bit. Our goal is not to force the horse’s movement through the bridle, but to teach him to respond in a certain way when he feels contact, not necessarily pressure, from the bit. The faster you can train yourself to cue him with a lighter touch, the faster you will get the light response we all want to achieve.

Pick up the RPMs: The ancient art of clucking

By LES VOGT - Horsetrader columnist - March 5th, 2015

LesVogt_170pxTenth in a series
Now that Les has covered the importance of our hands in the last two issues, let’s learn another communication device.

Clucking is a conditioned response. I read somewhere that clucking goes back to Xenophon*, who lived in something like 400 B.C. Anyway, horsemen have been doing it a long time. And it is interesting how clucking makes a difference, as far as bringing up the adrenaline in a horse.

Training Your Hands: Part 2

By LES VOGT - Horsetrader columnist - February 19th, 2015

LesVogt_170pxNinth in a series
Last issue, Les started an in-depth look at how to use our hands. We pick up with more keys to communication.

Another thing you’ll need to work on is to develop your hands’ “neutral” position, which needs to become one where there is no contact with the bit. Our goal is to have a horse that yields quickly and smoothly to any pressure—ideally to just the feel of you taking the slack out of the reins—and if you’re used to having contact with the bit all the time, you’ll never get there.

Training Your Hands

By LES VOGT - Horsetrader columnist - February 5th, 2015

LesVogt_170pxEighth in a series
After reviewing reins last issue, we’ll look at how we use our hands in this column and next.

A key component of this program is that you learn to ride with “life” in your hands. What we mean by this is that you never want to just hang on the bit with steady pressure. Any time you pick up (that is, start to take the slack out of the reins) and feel resistance, you’ll want to immediately start working your hands back and forth on the snaffle, or go to soft bumps if you’re using a direct rein, until the horse stops resisting and yields to your hand. If you try to just pull on the horse, you’re really only training the horse to pull back, and in the long run he’s a lot stronger than you are!

Handling Your Reins

By LES VOGT - Horsetrader columnist - January 15th, 2015

LesVogt_170pxSeventh in a series
After reviewing equipment last issue, Les breaks down one of the foundational communication devices.

Cavessons: Start pretty loose and adjust

By LES VOGT - Horsetrader columnist - January 1st, 2015

LesVogt_170pxSixth in a series
Les wraps up his equipment checklist with the set-up of the cavesson.

Running Martingales: A good fit?

By LES VOGT - Horsetrader columnist - December 18th, 2014

LesVogt_170pxFifth in a series
Les takes a look at why a martingale serves a purpose in early stages of training.

I will use a running martingale occasionally, and I recommend them for many riders. I like a heavy leather one, and I want it adjusted so that the rings of the martingale can go all the way to the horse’s throatlatch when he’s standing relaxed. That means his head, or your hands, would have to really get up there before the rings actually pulled on the reins. The martingale is not there to pull your horse’s head down; its main function is to add weight and balance to the reins during the learning process.

Another Choice: High or Low?

By LES VOGT - Horsetrader columnist - December 4th, 2014

LesVogt_170pxFourth in a series
Before entering the arena, we take a closer look at the details of our snaffle bit.

I tend to ride with the snaffle fairly low in the horse’s mouth. Often I’ll have it a half-inch or more off (below) the corners. I find that the lower I have the snaffle the lower a horse’s head will tend to go.

Normally we want their heads low since our ultimate goal is to get the horse’s back rounded and his weight distributed to the hindquarters so we can maximize his performance. The one time I might be careful here is if I’m on a horse that has heavy shoulders, because if he carries his head too low it will be hard to keep his weight off of his front end.