HEY RAY!: I’ve always dreamed of owning a Spanish horse — Andalusian or Lusitano — but now they are just out of my reach financially. Do you have any thoughts or recommendations on Spanish half-breeds as a “Plan B”?
— Karen Hollis, Rancho Cucamonga, Calif.

HEY KAREN: I can understand the attraction for those exotic breeds. They truly are beautiful. The nice thing about the Andalusian is that when crossed with other breeds, their traits usually enhance the new foal. The other advantage of a Spanish cross is that it can be registered as a new pure breed, or at least a half-Andalusian horse. Having a venue to compete in helps in the event you want to showcase or promote your horse.

Some of the most popular crosses that are actual breeds include:
IBERIAN WARMBLOOD (Andalusian X Thoroughbred)
AZTECA (Andalusian X Quarter horse)
ARALUSIAN or HISPANO-ARABE (Andalusian X Arabian)
SPANISH NORMAN (Andalusian X Draft)
WARLANDER (Andalusian X Friesian)

As far as cost goes, with the exception of the Warlander, most of these crosses can be purchased for a fraction of the cost of a purebred Andalusian. Warlander foals can sometimes cost as much as a pure Andalusian or Friesian foal because the value of each breed is about the same.

Now then, the key in any breeding is to try to combine the right horses in a way that produces an offspring that is better than the two parents. Any breeding should be carefully selected for form to function. I’ve known many people who got into an exotic breed strictly for the beauty and “fantasy” of it all, so please ask yourself the question: “Are you looking for a really pretty horse, or one that can do something?” Since the Spanish horse is a horse that was intended for kings, looks and function were a prerequisite.

The other thing about the Spanish horse is that it has been a foundation for many breeds we know today — one of the reasons why they cross so well. In essence, what you are doing is going back to the beginning. The question, then, is why pick one cross over another?

If you want a big-strided, hot horse with speed like the Thoroughbred but you would prefer something a little more sensible and with a bit more substance for competition, then I think the Iberian Warmblood is your ticket.

On the other hand, if you are more of a western-type rider that likes a Quarter Horse because they are strong, quick at the start, and cowy — but wished you had a bigger foot, denser bone and a little more hair for exhibitions or a parade — then the Azteca might fit the bill.

The Arabian is one of those extremely versatile horses. You’ll see them on the track, in front of a cart, going over jumps, reining and cutting cows — and in every single event in the show arena. But the one thing they do better than any breed is endurance. The Aralusian is a culmination of these things — on “steroids”, figuratively speaking. The body gets bigger, the hair gets longer, the movement gets fancier, the mind gets clearer, and the beauty becomes magnified. If you feel oversized on an Arab but love all of these qualities (and you believe bigger is better and love to go all day long), then look no further.
If you fancy the strong, quiet and subdued qualities of the gentle giants known as Drafts but wished they were slightly more refined and a little lighter on their feet, then the Spanish Norman might be yourknight in shining armor.

When a fantasy horse is what you are looking for, and you can’t make up your mind whether you want the white one or the black one because they are both absolutely perfect, then look at the Warlander. He’ll not only enhance the qualities of each breed and heighten possilities in the show ring, but he will pleasantly surprise you into thinking that price was not a determining factor in owning one.

Karen, I can assure you that whatever choice you make will be the right one. I personally have owned all of the crosses mentioned above at one time or another, and I thoroughly appreciate what each horse had to offer to my life.

Remember to always trust your instincts and think safe,

RAY

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: As a mounted posse member, I need a clear picture of what to look for in a horse when I’m selecting a partner for this kind of work. Do you have any suggestions for people in my situation to make the right choice?
— Kim Amerman, Wildomar, Calif.

HEY KIM: Anytime you deal with a horse, it’s always good to have a clear picture of what you want before getting started. So, you’re off to a good start. The qualities that should be important for a mounted police horse should be the standard for all horses. Security and dependability are two elements that go a long way any time you need to rely on any partner in a relationship.

That’s where we should start. When you stand in front of the horse you are considering, ask yourself: “How do I feel about this horse?” When you look into his eye, does he settle you or does he make you uncomfortable? In this moment, you need to trust your instincts. It’s so easy to be distracted by a pretty face, a beautiful color, fancy movement or maybe even a great education. Just because a horse has been taught to do something, it doesn’t mean he’s going to be willing to do it for you. It’s not to say that the qualities mentioned above are not important, I just believe that a sweet, willing and predictable horse should be at the top of the list. So look for that intention of being able to S.W.A.P. through every phase of the evaluation while going down your list of standards.

The standard should not be gauged by what they are able to do, but rather on how they actually do it — and how you feel about the horse’s intention. You can expose a horse to flags, bags, tarps, smoke and even gunfire, but all of this would be of no value if the horse was not accepting of it. I’ve talked about tolerance versus acceptance in previous columns, and acceptance is a must. A “barely tolerant” horse can still be unpredictable and therefore dangerous. So look for a horse that shows “try” as opposed to “fight.” It will make the whole difference in the future of your relationship with him. Because a perfect horse does not exist, you need to look for a horse that has the ability to learn with ease. If you don’t trust your own judgment, then find someone’s judgment that you do trust to help you.

The trained horse will probably be more expensive than the trainable one, but he will probably not be necessarily better. If money is no object, you should start off with the most trained horse you can find that fits the bill. Now, how do you know that the training that he purportedly has is actually in him? My suggestion to you is to ask the seller to leave the horse in the stall until you get there. Try to get a feel for this horse from the moment the seller approaches the horse in the stall, halters, leads, cross ties, grooms, cleans his feet, saddles, cinches up, bridles, leads out to the arena, lunges, mounts, rides through any and all of your requests and requirements, dismounts, unsaddles, showers and returns to the stall. This is going to come down to a judgment call on your part that shouldn’t be stated until you get home. You need to ask yourself, do I still feel like he is “the one?” If the answer is “yes,” make an appointment to see him again. This time, it’s your turn. If all goes well, try not to be too excited and negotiate down. Make sure you leave with him; he’s the horse of your dreams. So, Kim, especially in your case, you will need to trust your instincts and think safe.

RAY

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: What is the best way to teach a rider to be light in the hands? Children always tend to be harder in the horse’s mouth, and I know this can lead to a horse that will take the bit and pull threw.
— Victoria Jensen, Cleveland, TN

HEY VICTORIA: I know exactly what you mean since I have six of my own children ranging from 4 to 16 years of age. There are a lot of things that you can do. One exercise that the beginner rider should first experience is riding with no reins at all. The safest way is by lunging them. Allow them to hold on first. Later, they should be able to ride off the seat of their pants with no hands.

After they achieve an independent seat and confidence, try this next: Take one of the reins off the bridle. This is a good exercise — providing the horse knows how to give to pressure — and stop by flexing. This teaches the inexperienced rider that when things are going well, (i.e. horse is moving straight and maintaining an adequate cadence and stride) hanging on the rein will change what is already working. They recognize quickly that staying out of the horse’s face not only makes the horse happy but it keeps him moving in the right direction! When you only have one rein and the horse only direct reins or plow reins, the options you have are turning in that one direction or flexing to a stop. It might be a good idea to practice these two exercises with the rider first, before turning them loose.

This is also a great exercise for young horses that have trouble rating themselves. The moment they begin to go too fast, the only option the rider has — inexperienced or not — is to flex them to a stop, which happens to be the right thing to do. For those horses that can actually neck rein, this exercise allows the rider to direct rein in one direction and neck rein in the other.

Riders should practice this exercise equally on both sides of the bit. You know you’ve practiced enough when control is no longer an issue. It will be obvious when you achieve the timing and feel necessary to make it look easy. You should not give both reins back to the young rider until he or she clearly sees the value and importance of keeping the horse comfortable in his mouth. Don’t hesitate to take back a rein if bad habits reoccur. Remember, it’s hard to hang on a horse’s mouth when you only have one rein.

If you actually have a horse that has learned that the only way to defend himself is by rooting (pulling threw the bit downward), try this:

Back him with his poll up while pulling back on both reins equally and releasing the moment he steps back a step or two. This will deliver the picture he needs to see in order to discourage him from continuing that behavior. Continue this process until there are no signs of pulling down on the part of the horse. Don’t forget to reward for each and every rein back. It’s important not to release the rein after the horse steps back, if he falls behind the vertical. You don’t want to reward evading the bit. You may want to refer to my previous HEY RAY! COLUMN (What exactly is “ On The Bit”). Manipulate the reins in such a way that he feels light when the poll is up after the horse steps back, before releasing. There are two ways your horse will feel light in your hands. One is by evading the bit by falling behind the vertical, and the other is by staying connected but in self carriage. The latter will prove more beneficial for your horse. If at any moment while doing this exercise you feel unsafe or threatened, flex to a stop and reevaluate your options.

Victoria, on behalf of every horse with a shy mouth, I thank you for your question! Remember always to trust your instincts, and think safe.

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: My horse has no problem leaving home and his stable mate, and when he goes down the trail by himself, he’s fine. But when I trailer or take him anywhere (camping, poker ride, etc.) he “buddy’s up” with the horse we trailed with or just started riding with. He doesn’t have to know the horse prior, either, and he’ll throw a fit if he thinks his new buddy is getting away from him. He seems uncomfortable in a large group of horses, too. I have dealt with this for about five years, and I wonder if I need to just keep dealing it. He’s a 10-year-old Appy-Quarter.
— Karen Boersma, Norco, Calif.

HEY KAREN: I’m happy to hear this is something that you were able to handle for five years without getting hurt. Anytime I hear things like, “My horse is throwing a fit”, I think it’s dangerous. So, I’ll assume you are a competent rider and can handle yourself in this situation.
Actually, I have a couple of horses I’m currently working on with this exact same issue, and they are coming along great.

Before we get started, it’s important that we have a couple of fundamental exercises under our belt. The first is being able to have your horse flex his head to your leg and give to the bit through lateral flexion with the intention to stop. Do this in both directions until he doesn’t move. Secondly, we need to be able to flex his head laterally from side to side without any resistance from your horse, even when the single pull of the rein is sudden and assertive. The flexion in this exercise should put his nose only halfway to your leg. Practice this also at a standstill until your horse is flexing and giving in the direction of the pull before you grab a hold of his face. Take notice to anchor the rein to your leg when flexing as opposed to just pulling and hanging. The anchoring will help with the timing of the release.

Progress this exercise to the walk and trot, with transitions in both directions. Wait for the horse to give to the rein before changing directions. As the horse gets better, pull the rein to your leg sooner and have the horse deal with the added challenge. This exercise will help him go FROM the emotional and reactive side and TO his thinking side of his brain.

Now we are ready to hit the trails. Call your trail-rider friends who are willing to help with your horse’s mental therapy and who can take direction. First, try leading the group. If your horse becomes anxious or unruly, simply ask the other riders to stop behind you and flex your horse to a stop as practiced before. If your horse doesn’t have a problem leading the group, allow one of the helpers to move up next to you and evaluate and handle that situation the same as before. If all goes well, instruct the helper to move ahead.

This is where I believe most of your efforts will take place. At the first signs of trouble, ask the rider ahead to stop, and have your horse believe that his behavior will result in nothing more than the reward-able consequence of stopping through flexion once again. Continue this step until he stands quietly on a loose rein. Once he feels confident that he will not be left behind and stops showing the behaviors of insecurity, allow the rider ahead to turn around and resume the follower position. Slowly but consistently, have the helper advance next to you — and then in front of you a couple of horse lengths as before. If the horse acts up again, this time flex him from left to right until he walks quietly.

At that point, ask the helper to do his rounds again (to the back, middle and the front.) If the horse becomes too hard to handle or threatening in any way, spiral to a stop until he gives. Sometimes horses can get so bad in this kind of a situation where your safety might be at risk. Jumping off and backing your horse assertively as the reward-able exercise is always a welcomed option before starting up again. When he becomes tolerant of the rider ahead while flat-footing the walk, ask the helper to move up another horse length or two and reward your horse by having the helper repeat the cycle of going from follower to leader.

Always wait until your horse actually breaks out of the walk before correcting. Remember to allow him to go along on a loose rein, even if it results in breaking out of the walk right away. This will make it clear in your horse’s mind that he still has freedom of choice, and we are okay with whatever choice he makes.

The final exercise will be having your horse deal with being left behind. Here’s the plan: When you approach an intersection or crossroads, have the helper who is leading ahead turn out of sight. Instruct the helper to be out of sight but not out of hearing distance. You will then continue down the trail unless your horse becomes unsettled. If he acts up or breaks out of the walk, simply spiral to a stop until he stands there on a loose rein. If he does well, instruct the helper to ride back toward you and repeat the cycle of going from back, to middle, to front and back around the corner. If your horse holds his ground, call your helper back once again and repeat that process.
After a few tries of this, let your horse follow the leader around the corner until the next intersection. Once he gets good at this, the helper can attempt all these challenges from further away while in the trot or canter. Adding more riders to the challenge should be gradual, and handled the same way.

It is believed that practice makes perfect, but here is a perfect example where that is not the case. Practice the wrong thing for five years, and get really good at doing it wrong. “PERFECT PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT”. The very first time you go out and apply this approach to your horse, it should turn out as I explained. Initially, it might be helpful to pick a short-distanced trail ride and have plenty of time to give to your horse so that he gets it. If you only have 15 minutes to get the job done, it might take you a lifetime, but if you have a lifetime it might only take 15 minutes. I commonly say when I go out on trail with a horse for the first time,”HONEY, CANCEL THE REST OF MY DAY” because I want to be back as soon as possible.

Karen, I’m confident you’ll feel proud of yourself as soon as you put some time aside to tackle this old challenge with a new approach.

As always, trust your instincts and think safe,

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: Lunging is a large part of my training program. Most of my horses go around nice and easy, while some pull really hard. I give and take on the lunge line, but it mostly turns into a pulling contest that I lose. They listen and look good going around, but my hands hurt by the end of the lesson. Why do some horses pull and others don’t? How do I stop this tug of war?
–Wendy, Phelan, Calif.

HEY WENDY: I suggest you buy yourself a pair of gloves while you figure out your new approach. Like anything else with a horse, it’s all about the preparation that comes before that counts.

Sometimes learning to train a horse is a lot like experimenting with cooking. We sometimes end up with a delicious dish that we can’t duplicate because of the lack of a recipe. We end up with something we really like but we are not exactly sure how it happened. The dish we are about to prepare will now not only be simple to make but will be palatable for you and your horse.

The challenge here will not only be having your horse flex laterally without resistance but also being able to do it while moving forward through all the gaits with freedom. It doesn’t matter whether you use a lunging cavason or a halter. What is important, is that you use the kind of head gear that gives you leverage to make an impression if needed. Preparing the horse for lunging has nothing to do with lunging the horse. It’s easier to push the hind end away from you, than to pull the front end around you when trying to influence direction. When you are lunging, the horse is pulling on you. Pulling back only perpetuates the problem. Lunge the horse one or two feet away from you. The moment you feel resistance in your hand, push his hindquarters to the outside of the circle while resisting with your hands. When he makes the attempt to cross over and out with his hindquarters, his head will turn in toward you, releasing the pressure of the line in your hands. At that moment, feed him more line and drive him forward back on to the circle, but be careful not to unsettle him. That way he has a better chance of getting the picture you are trying to paint.

It’s all about getting that breakthrough. Continue this process every time you feel your horse leaning on your hands. This will teach him that looking toward you while slightly stepping out behind is more comfortable than leaning on the line. As he becomes more aware of the benefits of not leaning and pulling on the line, while walking or trotting closely around you, moving into a bigger circle should be part of the reward.

At the first signs of leaning, capture that pressure in your hand and — without losing it –simply reel him in slowly but consistently until he remembers the lesson. When he does, and he will, immediately put him back in a big circle. He will soon associate lightening up with big circles and big circles with being on the right track. This will become a self-rewarding system for your horse. Because bigger circles are easier to travel on than small ones, the horse will soon be motivated to do whatever is needed to be let out on to the big circle. Don’t attempt working at the canter with this exercise until the walk and trot are easy and clear for your horse.

Also, here is my answer your question, “Why do some horses pull and some don’t while lunging?”: A horse will do the right thing ( in this situation, not leaning) because you either intentionally taught him by explaining the value through an approach and/or system. The other reason a horse might do the right thing is because he simply figured it out on his own without your help. A situation presented itself with a challenge and the horse adjusted to it with the right answer simply by chance. When those things happen, we should feel lucky. The other way to feel lucky is to have a well thought-out system with a good approach and good, consistent practice. So, I hope you feel lucky in whatever you do.

Trust your instincts and think safe,

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: I have a mare, a PMU baby now 9 years old with a good disposition in hand and under saddle, too. At feeding, she has a bad attitude – biting, throwing her head, threatening me. Help! I have tried several approaches — from ignoring her to backing her up and away. I have two other horses whom she respects and gives way to. At liberty, she is not “people-friendly.”
–Kathy Camuso, Corona, Calif.

HEY KATHY: This issue is more common than you might imagine. I appreciate the great insight you’ve shared and the things you have tried in order to resolve this challenge with your horse. What is truly reassuring about this whole picture is the fact that your mare has shown the ability to S.W.A.P. (be sweet, willing, and predictable) in any and all situations — including this problem area. In other words, your mare will do the right thing (1) with you while in hand and under saddle and (2) while turned out with other horses. This tells me that she is willing to curb her behavior in a way that won’t be too difficult for you, if you use the right approach.

Because she gives way to your other horses, having to deal with an ALPHA mare likely isn’t the issue. Even if it were, the approach would be the same – the process just might have taken a little longer.

Feeding all the horses together in an open pen at the same time would be very enlightening to your mare because the other two horses would simply (and clearly) teach her the lesson. The problem with this approach is the possibility of injury during the process, but it’s an option, nonetheless. The advantage of experiencing this, Kathy, is that you would not only recognize the timing and duration needed for this to work, but you’d also witness the moment of breakthrough and the change in your horse’s behavior. It’s definitely something to see someday, but perhaps not with your horses.

Because you are satisfied with your mare’s attitude in other areas of your relationship, it’s important that while you work on this weak link, there’s no association to any negative feelings or resentment back to you. We can accomplish this by doing the following:

• Remember your mare is just trying to express herself in a way that has always worked for her until now.
• When she is trying to express herself, simply misunderstand what she means. As a human, this should be very easy for you to do because we are so good at it.
• Always look for the excuse to reward, not for the excuse to punish.
• Our “reward-able” exercise will be chasing around the stall or ring. (Practice before feeding and reward by petting her after you see that look of regret in her eye.)
• When feeding, the moment you see the behavior you cannot reward, perceive it as your mare saying: “Kathy! Can you please put down my feed immediately and run over to my stall and play that chase-me-around game for a while, so you can tell me how great I am at it? I hope you don’t mind since it’s also one of your favorite games until I work up an appetite. (Of course what she is really thinking is: “Hey lady… hurry up — me first, I’m starving!”)
• It won’t be long before your mare recognizes that her behavior is not only all right with you , but you actually welcome it because of what it means to you.
• Projecting the right body language is crucial, which is why it is important to believe the scenario. (This is what keeps you from being reactive and justifying her behavior.)
• Once your mare realizes that her behavior is what is postponing her meal, she will figure out where change needs to happen. Not because you said so (in the eyes of the horse, you’re not even aware there’s a problem), but because she sees value in it.
• Continue this process until she shows no signs of the old behavior.

There are many systems that work well. I choose this approach because you don’t have to be tough, just consistent. Also, it sets up an environment to S.W.A.P. that allows freedom of choice to change, as well as good feelings from making that choice. It also promotes feeling good “about me” while changing. That is important.

Kathy, I’m confident that you will have fun watching the transformation of your horse through this experience.

Always trust your instincts and think safe,

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: I work with horses for a living at a major Southern California tourist attraction, but I have a problem with my own 16-year-old Quarter Horse at home. He gets extremely anxious when I take any of our other horses off of our property. He runs around, bucks, kicks out and screams so loud you can hear him a block away. How can I help him get over this before he hurts himself?
–Laura Hutchison, Corona, Calif.

HEY LAURA: Don’t feel badly — this is more common than you know. Horses act that way for many reasons. Let’s be sure we don’t “over-analyze” why your horse would act this way. We need to (1) recognize that we don’t see value in the behavior, and (2) hope that your horse recognizes his behavior is not going to get him the results he is after. Once he realizes that, he will abandon those actions and reevaluate his situation.

Remember, all your horse is trying to do here is express himself. The way we are going to help him understand his efforts are a waste of time and energy is by doing the following:

First, we have to make sure his stall or pen is tall enough and free of any unsafe obstacles. Next, we will set up a scenario where a helper will take out one of the horses from the barn and off the property. Make sure that you have communication with them so that you can ask them to come back, if needed. When your horse begins his tantrum, simply come out from a nearby place where the horse couldn’t see you and act as if the horse is calling you to interact with him. It’s key that you are not in plain sight (i.e., around the corner, behind the barn, etc.) When you do come out, simply kiss the horse off while using a long rope that you can throw and retrieve in order to keep the horse moving around the stall assertively. You want the horse to think that — by screaming and carrying on — he is calling you out to run and play. Move him around until he stops the screaming and bucking, and then back off to let him settle. Don’t stop this exercise until he looks like he’s ready to settle, then quietly retreat to your hiding spot, giving the impression that you are gone.

Soon, he’ll act up again. When he does, like a siren from a firetruck, begin to start kissing loudly the moment you hear him carry on. This will let him know you are on your way to play. Continue kissing all the way up to the stall and through the running around in the pen. Again, when he looks focused on what he’s doing, say “good boy” and return to your hiding place.

By now, the horse will wonder whether you are just around the corner or totally gone. Because this process might take a while, it’s not a bad idea to have a bale of hay or chair to sit on and maybe a good book. What we are trying to do is like what our teacher used to do on test day. After handing out the test, she would go out the door for a few seconds, then come back in. The reason was to keep the cheaters honest. Once the students believed that the teacher might still be standing behind the door, the teacher was free to leave for as long as she wanted. You need to continue this process until the horse believes that you are just around the corner.

Secondly, if and when he begins to scream, you need to be able to silence him by simply kissing loudly from your hiding place. Then and only then will you know that your horse has had the breakthrough you were hoping for. This will be a good time to bring back his buddy and reunite them.

I have used this system repeatedly with great success not only for horses like yours, but with stallions stabling next to each other, and for other undesirable behaviors.

What’s nice about this approach is that the horse is not being punished for his behavior. It’s merely a misunderstanding on our part with good intentions. The horse is calling for his buddy, but we think he’s calling us out to play. Once again, the horse will reevaluate his choices while maintaining our relationship. This should be a fun experience for you, Laura, because you will have created a scenario where your horse will never feel alone again. So, always trust your instincts and think safe,

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: Over the years, several of my teachers and trainers have touched on the topic of connec-tion in regards to collec-tion. They have inter-changed words such as “on the bit,” “on the vertical,” “suspen-sion,” “elevation” and “engage-ment,” in order to explain connec-tion.

But everyone seems to have a different “explana-tion”. What exactly is on the bit? Is there a difference between “on the bit” and “on the vertical”? Also, What is the true value of connec-tion and stretching and how does it influence engagement in the movement of the horse?
— Celie Weston, Tujunga, Calif.

HEY CELIE: My first challenge in answering you is to recognize the fundamental importance of the many questions you have asked — 13 QUESTIONS! Secondly, I must be clear and precise so this week’s column doesn‘t turn into a book! Clearly, you have a serious interest in dressage. What I am about to share with you, though, can be directly applied to all horses and horsemen alike, regardless of discipline.

First, let’s review some of the terms you have mentioned:

“Connection” is the moment a horse chooses to accept contact, with the intention to interact without resistance or evasion. (For example, when a loose horse looks to follow you around, when a horse accepts the attachment of a lead or lunge lin, or when your horse accepts the feel of your hands in his mouth through the bit and reins.)
“Collection” is the process of gathering up and shortening the outline or frame of the horse. This happens when the withers, neck and pole are raised in relation to the hind quarters, causing the stride to become shorter and higher. This occurs naturally by the horse, or influenced by the rider.

“Stretching” is what a horse does with his head, neck, and body in order to lengthen his outline resulting in a more forward, lower and longer frame and/or stride. (Nose on the ground).

“On the bit” is a commitment on the part of the horse, to “stretch” down into any length of rein at any given time, in lightness (self-carriage), while maintaining “Connection“. (Different than “On The Vertical”).

“On the vertical” is simply a head position. The horse’s forehead is straight up and down (vertical) or perpendicular to the ground but not necessarily on the bit. (Also known as “false head set” if not on the bit.) Note: A horse can be “on the bit” and also simultaneously on, above, or behind the vertical. On the bit while on the vertical is ideal.

“Suspension” is simply hang time. The moment the horse spends in the air during a stride when all four feet are off the ground (floating).

“Elevation” refers to how high a knee and or foot comes off the ground. It is possible to have elevation without suspension (gaited horses).

“Engagement” is what a horse does with his body in order to propel himself forward. This happens when he lowers his hindquarters and brings his back feet forward before pushing off into motion.

The moment we choose to use an artificial aid for communication, certain things need to happen if we expect the process to work. It doesn’t matter whether the artificial aid is your cell phone or a bit and bridle. Both horse and human need to recognize the aid is a tool to communicate through.

Squeezing the horse into the bit is the same as placing a call. When the horse feels the sensation, it’s the same as the receiver of the call hearing the phone ring. When the horse accepts the CONNECTION of the bit, it’s the same as when the person you are calling, decides to answer the phone. When the horse is STRETCHING down into whatever length of rein you’ve given him and stays committed to that connection, it’s the same as when the person you are calling, picks up the phone and answers it.

The continuous interest to check and see if someone is still there on the other end, is called ON THE BIT. (“On the bit” = “Are you still there?”.)

The true value of connection and stretching begins with getting the horse’s mind focused. It allows you to be able to check and see if the horse is on the bit by simply bringing your hands forward. If the horse takes up the slack (seeks the bit),it means he’s still on the bit. Another advantage is, it engages the muscles of the top line. Being able to gather or lengthen the frame of your horse through stretching also means being able to collect or extend his stride — which requires your horse to be engaged in his effort to move forward.

Celie, I hope this clarifies things for you.

Always trust your instincts and stay safe,

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: This is about lost trust and resentment. I was training my horse, Connor, for trailering. Whenever he stopped in front of the trailer, I would back him up forcefully — I was trying to make the choice of either going “forward” or being “backed up forcefully.” I had thought of “backing up” as punishment. At that time, I didn’t know about SWAP and didn’t reward him for successfully backing up. Not only that, I backed him up very forcefully. If I caught up to him while I was running forward, he would get a sharp tap in the chest. Now he is resentful. How do I get him back?
— Evan Moser, Lancaster, Calif.

HEY EVAN: All is not lost. You are ahead of the game because of how clear you are about the need for change. The approach you took is one that could have worked. Many people have been successful loading horses — as well as making them do things they didn’t want to do — with punishment. Negative reinforcement will work if you’re very good at administering it and your horse is willing to accept it. If punishment brings out the worst in your horse, you will initiate a battle that, unless you win, will haunt you throughout the relationship with your horse. I feel freedom of choice is the key to your horse’s happiness. How you help him make the right choices will be what he appreciates the most about you. The approach, intention, and delivery will influence how accepting your horse will be.

The first thing we need to do is put your dressage whip away. The whip, unless used properly, will only frustrate and/or insult your horse. Connor needs to understand that anything he feels from now on actually means something. Sensation or pressure should not evoke fear or intimidation. You need to come across as harmless, but enlightening, if you expect your horse to have the necessary breakthroughs needed to S.W.A.P. (Sweet, Willing, And, Predictable).

The role you will be playing should be that of a referee. You need to know the exact rules of the game you are playing and should be inactive if the horse is doing what is expected. The tool or extension of your hand should be one that is insulated from pain.

One way you can accomplish this is by wrapping a small sponge at the end of your wand or stick with some electrical tape. This doesn’t need to be pretty, just functional. This way you can tap your horse all over until he becomes fully desensitized and accepting of the wand. Next, you should attempt to put meaning to sensation. The way you will do this, is by raising the volume (stepping up the pressure) every couple of taps until he moves. When he does, stop tapping and allow him to continue to move. You should be able to move your horse forward, sideways and backwards with the use of the wand with the sole intention of rewarding him at the end, each and every time. If you want him to stop, rub him with the end of the wand continuously until he stands quietly. This should help restore your horse’s negative perception of the aid, (whip) and restore the trust and confidence in you.

How you apply your aids is no different than how you initially start your car. Once you crank it over, allow it to continue to run on its own. Continuing to crank the starter would only result in damaging the system. Don’t reapply the aids until the horse stalls or stops. Then — and only then — should the aids be reinstated. Hopefully by this point your horse will have a different impression of your intentions when applying your artificial aids (anything held in your hand).

The next stage should be fairly simple now that we have your horse in a healthier state of mind. Remember, we are looking for the excuse to reward, not for the excuse to punish. If the horse does anything other then what we have suggested or hoped, we should ask ourselves: Is this something I can reward you for? If the answer is no, then find something that you can reward him for, i.e. backing, circling, or turning on the forehand with a reward at the end. Because horses are masters at reading body language, it is extremely important that you stay positive, regardless of which of the two choices your horse picks.

If you choose backing up as your reward-able exercise, try patting him under his jaw with the padded end instead of on his chest. Not only will you avoid bringing back bad feelings from the sharp whip, but you will help position your horse’s frame in a way where his withers will be up and his haunches will be down. This will facilitate the exercise. Before you try loading your horse into the trailer, see if you can challenge him by asking him to walk over a puddle, tarp or other obstacle that he might refuse. This will give you a chance to practice and your horse a chance to succeed without the added challenges that go along with trailer loading.

Evan, I’m confident that you will restore the relationship between you and Connor if you just give the time needed for this process to work.

Trust your instincts and stay safe,

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!

HEY RAY!: I recently adopted a 5-year-old Thoroughbred mare off the track. She behaves well except when I put a saddle on. Then she gets antsy and walks on top of me and sometimes rears. But once the saddle is on, she’s fine. How do I get her to stop before she gets too dangerous?
— April Zimmerman, Aguanga, Calif.

HEY APRIL: Let me start by thanking you for creating a new home for a horse in need. As you probably already know, acquiring a horse — whether you adopt or buy — is the smaller part of the investment. The responsibility of figuring out what will be needed to make this commitment stick is where most of your efforts will go. If you truly want to be successful, you will have to be ruthlessly honest in the evaluation of your horse.

What concerns me about your question is that you seem to minimize the problem. You need to recognize that you have a horse that you should not trust in any situation until she learns to be sweet, willing and predictable (S.W.A.P.). It doesn’t matter whether the behavior is from fear, attitude, or both. Your horse needs to realize that as long as you’re with her, she has nothing to fear, regardless of the situation.

This feeling is something that you need to earn from your horse. I feel that the lesson of holding her ground can be better achieved by using anything that unsettles her other than the saddle, initially. That way if she had a bad experience before she learned the lesson, it wouldn’t be associated with the saddle. Remember, the only reason why the horse moves is because she hopes that, by doing so, she will leave the scary object behind (saddle, blanket, paper, bag, whip, etc.). Do not tie, or influence the horse by saying whoa or pulling on her to stop, during this process. The connection you have to the horse by the lead line, reins, etc. is simply to help you keep up with the horse while she’s figuring out her next move.

The most that you should represent to the horse at this moment is a ball and chain that she’ll have to deal with if she chooses to move. The freedom of choice to move is hers. Once the horse realizes that she is not getting hurt, but moving is not helping her, she will eventually stop. This will be a good time to introduce the saddle. Continue to put the saddle on and off over and over again until she doesn’t move before you cinch her up. This will be an important step in re-establishing the trust that will make her S.W.A.P.

If at any moment she becomes aggressive or threatening to you in any way, have her back up until she has a soft eye and reward her for the back-up. You should practice backing up and rewarding her before you establish this as the “Reward-able Exercise” while on the ground. We are looking for an excuse to reward her, so don’t forget that backing her up is not punishment for the aggressive behavior.

I truly believe that the reason your horse has a problem with the saddle is because of lack of preparation. I’m convinced that somebody put a saddle on your horse’s back before properly desensitizing her from movement, sound, and sensation. When going back and working on these things, make sure your horse is not just simply tolerant, but truly accepting. I’ve talked about this in previous Hey Ray columns.

April, I’m certain that if you follow these simple steps, not only will your mare perceive the saddle as being harmless, but she will appreciate the approach you have taken. If you don’t rush this process, it will take less time than you expect.

Always trust your instincts, and stay safe,

Ray

Horsetrader columnist Ray Ariss, husband to Pippa Ariss and father of six, shares his insight into the relationship of horseand human twice each month, in print and on www.horsetrader.com. He lives and trains in “Horsetown USA”, Norco, Calif., at his bustling Starbrite Riding Academy, where he currently has 50 horses in various stages of training, including Andalusians, Friesians, Quarter Horses, Paints, Thoroughbreds, Arabs, Mustangs and more. Ray attributes his training success to the support of his wife and partner, Pippa, and a system he calls S.W.A.P., to which he credits his multiple championships in several disciplines. His passionate understanding of the “human-horse” relationship was evident when he took on the challenge of training a wild Mustang and — in just 100 days — produced the highest-priced adopted Mustang ever — $50,000. Does your “horse-human relationship” leave you with a question for Ray? Click here to submit one!